Deconstruction- Reconstruction

Deconstruction- Reconstruction

For this project ‘Deconstruction’, I explored a range of different techniques such as layering, scrunching, wrapping, weaving and draping. The task was to deconstruct and reconstruct a man’s suit jacket and change it into a feminine garment. I found it to be really interesting through each stage of change the jacket from unpicking it and completely taking it apart to adding small details and creating structure from what once was a very masculine garment. I enjoyed working on the mannequins as it helped to experiment on for ideas to put into our sketchbook and was beneficial as I could try out my ideas and if something was not right I could change it and then record everything I did into my sketchbook. I got my inspiration from many artists and designers, which all used a range of techniques and different styles that gave me a wide range of options and choices to look at. One designer that I used as a major influence was Martin Margiela as he deconstructed many garments and reconstructed them into feminine garments. I particularly liked a jacket he made using the technique ‘weaving’. Some other designers and artists that inspired me were; Madame Gres, Alexander McQueen, Robert Cary-Williams and Cristo & Jeanne-Claude. My personal aim was to use the entire jacket, choosing where to use the lining and where to use the outside of the jacket as the lining was soft with a sheen, I found this particularly successful to drape and create pleats with. The outside of the jacket was thicker and much better to be used to create structure, so I took this all into consideration when experimenting and planning to create my new garment.



Martin Margiela- Weaved Jacket.



Robert Cary Williams 2006-2007 collection.



Martin Margiela- Deconstruction

 

Maison Martin Margiela was born in louvain in belgium in 1957. He graduated from the royal academy of fine arts in antwerp. From 1985 to 1987 he worked for jean paul gaultier, before showing his first collection ‘maison martin margiela’ in 1988.
Deconstruction is drawing attention to the stitch, which holds the fabrics together. Martin Margiela is a designer that has mastered this technique in fashion by recycling materials and garments. His work has a signature and recognizable looks as he uses a range of unusual materials such as porcelain, playing cards, gaffer tape etc.  Margiela’s deconstruction fashion pieces can be found in shops all around the world as he has 11 of his own shops.

 

This women’s dress that Margiela deconstructed was originally men’s bow ties. He used the bow ties and recycled them to create the dress. I like the way he has used them to create an edgy look in this garment with detail so you can still see the bow ties.

This men’s waistcoat was originally playing cards. I like this garment a lot as it’s quite retro, especially where the playing cards have been recycled they are quite worn and antique looking, which gives an antique look to the waistcoat. It’s also very different to mainstream fashion.

This sweater the Margiela made was originally raglan socks that had be cut open and resewn. The bust line has been made from two cupped heels of the socks, and the rest was remaining material from socks. I particularly think that this garment is successful as it had a classy look, but it also practical as it provides warmth and comfort.